External Trigger Work
Trigger Shoe
Trigger shoe for P series pistols part # (P-392) (add G for grooved, A for aluminum) availible directly from Kel-Tec. The shoe increases the trigger surface from .3 inches to .5 inches wide. This lessens the perceived weight of the trigger pull. This is very nice on the P-11/40 which has and advertised trigger pull of 9 lbs.
Some people advocate putting them on the P32 which has an advertised trigger pull of 5 lbs. I do not like this idea however because the shoe is wider than the P32 trigger guard.
You can use a bit of gasket sealer to help keep the shoe in place. You can also use a small drill bit (turn by hand only) to create dimples in the side of the trigger where the set screws contact the trigger to prevent the shoe from sliding.
A word on placement: Before you semi-permanently install the shoe, try a few different positions, I like mine near the top, where it contacts the grip and takes up the slack in the trigger pull. (make sure the trigger resets every time) Others like the shoe at the very tip of the trigger. This keeps the finger from getting pinched between the trigger and trigger guard (never pinched my finger) and provides maximum leverage for the trigger pull.
Alternative method:
I enlarged the opening in my grip enough so that the frame could be removed with the shoe installed. (ordinarily it must be removed) Then I used epoxy to permanently attach the shoe.
As you can see, it doesn't take much to make room for the trigger with the shoe. Knowing that the shoe absolutely will NOT come off is well worth the effort.
Trigger Stop
Below is an exact copy of the information on the KTOG site and is provided here for your easy reference.
Named after Bill White, this trigger stop is simple, cheap and recommended to improve control and trigger recovery speed. Take a standard #2 pencil eraser and cut it in half yielding two cylinders. Glue it to the back of the trigger with Crazy Glue or epoxy about 1/8 to 1/4 inch down from the set pin. Before gluing make sure the eraser clears the sharp edge on the grip frame where it engages the frame or it will be damaged over time. An alternative location is to mount the stop on the frame itself where it will engage the trigger. We have tried both locations and each works well. Trim and shape the eraser with a small file or emery board. Adjustment is done by filing the eraser until the "break" occurs just as the stop engages. Dry firing with sights on a clear target will enable you to see if the Trigger Stop forces you to squeeze to hard. A well adjusted stop will give you a staged feel when it engages, yet not cause a move off target when pulled through to fire. The stop enables you to stage the trigger and improve control on the first shot. Double taps will occur faster because of the trigger's reduced over travel. For cosmetics, apply black magic marker to the eraser and it blends in perfectly with the gun making it look factory original. This is a great low cost modification that has no downside. Simple, cheap, easy, safe. If the trigger stop falls off, the gun will still fire in an emergency. This is a highly recommended modification that anyone can do.
Now, what I have to add.
I prefer to mount the stop to the grip, as shown in the picture. I also prefer to adjust the stop so that there is no staging of the trigger. So you do not even notice the stop until after the trigger breaks. These are just personal preferences, I make no claim that they are better than the alternatives.
I like to use a black eraser from a mechanical pencil as shown in the pic. I think it looks better than a marker colored eraser and the color never wears off. Unfortunately Bic has started making these pencils with white erasers and the black ones are getting difficult to find.
Having installed a dozen or more stops for friends, I have found that the required thickness varies widely from pistol to pistol.
With your pistol unloaded, pull the trigger and observe the gap between the rear of the trigger and the frame as the trigger breaks.
Cut a piece of eraser slightly thicker than the gap you observed. File/sand it down until you can get the trigger to break by squeezing the stop a bit when setting in place. (pointing at the ceiling allows the stop to sit in place.
Glue the stop in place by cleaning both surfaces with rubbing alcohol, allowing to dry and using a drop of super glue.
Final fit by filing/sanding the stop until you reach the desired release point. You may wish to hold the trigger lightly against a strip of sandpaper while you drag it across the stop to shape it to match the trigger. (Make certain the trigger breaks easily each and every time you pull it, do not leave the stop so thick that it is difficult to fire)
If you feel you filed/sanded off too much, you can put a drop of super glue on the stop to build it up a bit. (don't pull the trigger until the glue drys completely) If it still is not to your liking, rip it off and try again.
Test fire a lot to ensure reliability.
